Travel To Kathmandu Guide for Travellers

Kathmandu isn’t a place you just land in — it’s a place you arrive to. The journey itself feels like a slow shift into another world. Whether you’re flying above the Himalayas or crossing dusty roads from India, getting here carries its own kind of adventure.

Flying into Kathmandu

The simplest way to reach Kathmandu is by air. Most travelers fly into Tribhuvan International Airport (TIA), the country’s main entry point. It’s a small airport set right inside the valley, and on a clear day, you can see mountain peaks glinting in the distance as your plane descends.

There are regular flights from cities like Delhi, Doha, Dubai, Bangkok, Kuala Lumpur, and Istanbul. If you’re coming from Europe or North America, you’ll usually have a connection through one of those hubs.

When you land, things can feel a bit chaotic at first. The visa on arrival process is straightforward but can take time, especially during peak season. There are a few machines for the form, but sometimes they don’t work — having a passport photo and cash in USD helps you move faster.

Outside the airport, taxi drivers will approach you right away. Some are friendly, some pushy — it’s better to arrange a pickup with your hotel beforehand, or head to the small booth offering prepaid taxis.

Coming Overland from India

If you like long road trips and seeing life up close, traveling overland from India is an option. There are a few main border crossings — Sunauli–Bhairahawa, Raxaul–Birgunj, and Banbasa–Mahendranagar are the most used. From any of these towns, buses and shared jeeps run to Kathmandu every day.

It’s not a quick trip. Depending on traffic, road conditions, and your luck, it can take anywhere between 8 to 12 hours. But the scenery makes up for it — green hills, rice fields, small tea stalls, and sudden views of rivers cutting through valleys.

Crossing from Tibet

From the north, Kathmandu connects to Tibet through the Rasuwagadhi–Gyirong border. This route is less common and depends on political and weather conditions. Travelers need a group visa and special permits, which are usually arranged through tour companies in advance.

If the border is open, the drive from the border to Kathmandu takes around seven hours, winding through high mountain passes and deep valleys.

Traveling from Other Cities in Nepal

If you’re already exploring other parts of the country, reaching Kathmandu is easy. Domestic flights from Pokhara, Bharatpur, and Biratnagar take less than an hour and are worth it for the views alone — it feels like flying through a sea of green hills.

If you’d rather stay on the ground, tourist buses run daily. They’re not fast, but you get a sense of the land — villages passing by, fields of corn and mustard, kids waving at the roadside. It’s the kind of journey that reminds you Nepal isn’t just mountains and temples; it’s people living life along the way.

A Few Practical Tips

• Flights in and out of Kathmandu can get delayed when weather shifts in the mountains. It’s smart to keep a buffer day before any international flight.
• Book early if you’re visiting during trekking season (March–May or September–November).
• Local airlines have small baggage limits, so pack light if you plan to fly around Nepal.

Getting to Kathmandu is part of the experience. Whether your first sight is from an airplane window or a winding highway, the moment you see the valley — with rooftops spreading between green hills — you’ll feel that quiet mix of excitement and curiosity that only travel brings.

Kathmandu isn’t the kind of city you just tick off a list. It’s noisy, spiritual, dusty, beautiful — all at once. The first few days can feel like too much, but then something clicks. The rhythm of the place starts to pull you in. The smell of incense, the sound of bells, the way people smile without hurry — it grows on you. These are the places that made me fall for the city, slowly and unexpectedly.

1. Swayambhunath (Monkey Temple)

You see it long before you reach it — a golden spire sitting high on a hill, with hundreds of steps leading up. The climb is tough, especially under the sun, but it’s strangely peaceful. Monkeys run along the stairs, prayer flags stretch out like rivers of color, and at the top, the wind carries the faint sound of bells. From there, you can see the whole city laid out like a painting — chaotic but alive.

2. Boudhanath Stupa

I went to Boudha in the evening, just as the sun started to fade. Monks were walking slowly around the stupa, spinning prayer wheels. The smell of butter lamps and incense filled the air. I sat on a rooftop café with a cup of tea and just watched the stupa glow against the blue dusk. For a city that rarely slows down, Boudha somehow makes time stop for a while.

3. Pashupatinath Temple

Pashupatinath hits differently. It’s one of the most powerful places in Kathmandu — spiritual, emotional, and at times, unsettling. Along the Bagmati River, cremation ceremonies take place while bells ring from the temples above. Holy men with painted faces sit near the ghats, blessing visitors or simply meditating. It’s not an easy place to visit, but it stays with you long after you leave.

4. Patan Durbar Square

Across the river, Patan feels like a different world. The old courtyards, red-brick buildings, and carved temples make it one of the most beautiful corners of the valley. What I loved most were the small workshops tucked into the lanes — metalworkers shaping statues, painters working on thangkas, old men sipping tea and talking quietly. It’s easy to spend an entire afternoon here without noticing how time slips away.

5. Bhaktapur Durbar Square

Bhaktapur has a slower heartbeat. The air feels cleaner, and the rhythm is calm. The square is filled with temples, narrow alleys, and artisans at work. Don’t rush it — walk, watch, and try the local curd, juju dhau. Early mornings are magical here. When sunlight hits the brick temples and the streets are still quiet, it feels like you’ve stepped into another century.

6. Thamel

Everyone ends up in Thamel, even if they say they won’t. It’s loud, messy, full of energy — and somehow, it grows on you. Music from bars mixes with the sound of motorbikes and street vendors calling out. You’ll find everything here: trekking gear, coffee shops, bookstores, and food from every corner of the world. It’s not the real Kathmandu, people say, but it’s part of its story all the same.

7. Garden of Dreams

If Thamel ever gets too much, the Garden of Dreams is where you breathe again. Behind the gates, the noise disappears. Old trees, fountains, white pavilions — it feels more European than Nepali, yet it fits the city perfectly. I spent an afternoon there just reading and watching the sunlight shift across the lawns. It’s peaceful in a way few places in Kathmandu are.

8. Kathmandu Durbar Square

This is where the old city once ruled. Palaces, shrines, and wooden carvings fill the square, each corner layered with history. You’ll see pigeons everywhere, and if you look closely, you’ll notice small details — a carving here, a bell there. Don’t miss the Kumari Ghar, home to the Living Goddess. If you’re lucky, she might appear for a few seconds at the window, silent and regal.

9. Chandragiri Hills

When the air clears, Chandragiri gives you one of the best views of the Himalayas. The cable car ride up is half the fun — it feels like floating above the valley. At the top, there’s a small temple and a viewpoint café. On clear days, you can even spot Everest far in the distance. It’s a good place to escape the noise for a few hours.

10. Kopan Monastery

High above Boudha, Kopan feels like a place outside time. The monastery sits quietly on the hill, surrounded by prayer flags and gardens. I went there early in the morning once — the air was cold, the valley still half asleep, and the sound of monks chanting drifted through the fog. It was simple, but it felt like peace.

Before You Leave

Kathmandu doesn’t reveal itself right away. It’s dusty, sometimes loud, often confusing — but give it a little time, and it opens up. Every temple, every alley, every quiet tea stall has something to say if you slow down enough to listen.

Kathmandu’s food scene is wild in the best way. You can eat like a local for a few hundred rupees or sit down in a cozy café that feels straight out of Europe. The city is full of contrasts — temple bells ringing outside while a barista froths milk inside. The mix of Nepali, Tibetan, and Indian flavors makes every meal an experience, and if you wander far enough from Thamel, you’ll find the dishes people here actually eat every day.

Momo

You can’t talk about Kathmandu without mentioning momo. These small steamed dumplings are everywhere — street stalls, restaurants, homes. Everyone has their favorite spot. The best ones usually come from small corner shops where they’re served piping hot with spicy tomato chutney. Buff momo (buffalo meat) is a local favorite, but vegetable and chicken versions are just as good. If you eat them once, you’ll crave them again the next day.

Dal Bhat

“Dal Bhat power, 24 hour” — that’s what locals say, and it’s true. This is the staple meal of Nepal, eaten twice a day by many families. It’s simple: steamed rice, lentil soup, and a mix of vegetable curries, pickles, and sometimes meat. It’s not fancy, but it fills you up and feels wholesome. The best Dal Bhat isn’t in restaurants — it’s in small family-run guesthouses or mountain lodges, cooked with patience and care.

Newari Food

Kathmandu is the heart of Newar culture, and their cuisine is something you can’t miss. If you want to taste real local food, find a traditional Newari restaurant in Patan or Bhaktapur. Try dishes like chatamari (Nepali-style pizza made from rice flour), bara (lentil pancake), and choila (spicy grilled meat). The flavors are strong — spicy, smoky, earthy — and usually served with homemade rice beer called aila.

Thukpa and Thenthuk

Cold mornings call for a bowl of Thukpa — a Tibetan noodle soup that’s warm, hearty, and comforting. It’s common in areas like Boudha where Tibetan influence is strong. Thenthuk is a thicker version with hand-pulled noodles and vegetables, and sometimes yak meat. These soups taste best in small Tibetan eateries where the steam fogs up the windows and you can smell garlic frying in the kitchen.

Chatpate and Street Snacks

On almost every street corner, you’ll find someone selling chatpate. It’s Kathmandu’s answer to Indian bhel puri — puffed rice mixed with onions, chilies, lemon, and a lot of spice. Everyone has their version of it, some with boiled potatoes, others with instant noodles tossed in. It’s messy, spicy, and addictive. There’s also panipuri, samosa, and deep-fried snacks you’ll smell before you even see them.

Juju Dhau (King of Yogurt)

If you visit Bhaktapur, don’t leave without tasting juju dhau, which literally means “king curd.” It’s a creamy, sweet yogurt served in small clay pots. Locals make it from buffalo milk, and it has a richer texture than anything you’ll find in supermarkets. Eat it fresh — once you’ve tried it, even plain yogurt back home won’t taste the same.

Coffee, Cafés, and Bakeries

Kathmandu has developed a solid coffee culture in recent years. In Thamel, Patan, and Boudha, you’ll find cafés roasting their own beans and serving proper espresso. Many of them double as quiet workspaces for travelers. Try Himalayan Java, Karma Coffee, or any small roastery tucked inside an alley. For breakfast, bakeries sell fresh croissants, apple pies, and cinnamon rolls — a perfect break from all the spice.

What to Expect

Food in Kathmandu is more than just fuel — it’s a way of life. Meals are often shared, conversations happen over endless cups of tea, and people genuinely care if you’ve eaten. Don’t rush it. Sit down, try something new, and let the mix of flavors tell you where you are.

Getting around Kathmandu can feel like stepping into a different world. The streets are crowded, chaotic, and full of life — motorbikes weaving between cars, pedestrians crossing wherever they please, and the occasional cow or street dog adding to the mix. At first, it can feel overwhelming, but once you spend a day or two here, you start to understand the city’s rhythm.

Local Buses and Micros

The cheapest way to move around is on the local buses or “micros” — small vans that run almost everywhere. They’re packed, often loud, and stops aren’t always announced, so you need to pay attention. But riding them gives you a glimpse of everyday Kathmandu life: office workers, students, street vendors — all crammed together, chatting or scrolling on their phones. Don’t expect comfort, but it’s authentic and cheap.

Taxis

Taxis are everywhere, and they are the easiest way to go longer distances or carry luggage. Always ask the driver to use the meter — some might suggest a flat rate, which can be higher than normal. A short ride within the city usually costs about 200–400 NPR, depending on traffic. I found that having some small bills ready makes negotiations easier if you get stuck with a driver who doesn’t want to use the meter.

Ride-Sharing Apps

Apps like Pathao and Tootle are becoming more popular. You can book a scooter or car from your phone, pay digitally, and avoid the stress of bargaining. I tried one on a rainy afternoon and it was fast and convenient, though the scooters can feel scary if it’s your first time riding among Kathmandu traffic.

Rickshaws and Tempos

For short trips, pedal rickshaws and small battery-run tempos are a fun option. They move slowly, giving you time to watch the streets and notice details you’d miss from a car window. In Thamel or Patan, I often hopped into a rickshaw just to explore narrow alleys or reach a hidden courtyard.

Renting a Scooter or Motorbike

If you’re confident riding in traffic, renting a scooter gives freedom. Daily rentals cost around 1,000–1,500 NPR. Be careful: traffic rules are loosely followed here, so you need to be alert. Always wear a helmet, carry your license, and don’t assume drivers will stop for pedestrians.

Walking

Some areas are best explored on foot. Streets around Thamel, Durbar Square, or Patan are narrow, with small shops, temples tucked behind walls, and hidden cafés. Walking lets you discover corners that taxis or buses will never take you to. Watch your step though — pavements are uneven, and sometimes you’ll have to dodge vehicles.

Going Outside the City

If you want to visit nearby towns like Pokhara, Chitwan, or Nagarkot, there are tourist buses and private cars. Buses are comfortable, leave early in the morning, and give you a chance to see the countryside slowly. I once took a bus to Pokhara — the roads twist through hills and rivers, and it feels like the scenery itself is the main attraction.

Kathmandu’s transportation is messy, unpredictable, and sometimes stressful. But it’s also a part of the city’s character. Every ride, whether on a microbus, rickshaw, or scooter, gives you a slice of daily life here. The key is patience, observation, and a little sense of adventure.

One of the best ways to escape the city’s chaos is to explore the surrounding Hills & Because of the city's location it have hundreds of options. The valley is cradled by mountains, and even short hikes can give you panoramic views, fresh air, and a sense of calm that’s hard to find in the bustling streets below. These trails aren’t just about exercise; they’re about discovering small villages, temples, and forests that feel untouched.

Nagarkot

Nagarkot is probably the most famous nearby hike, but for good reason. The trail starts from Bhaktapur or Sundarijal, winding through small villages, terraced fields, and pine forests. It’s not difficult, but expect a steady climb. Reaching the top, you get a view of the Himalayas stretching endlessly, from Langtang to Everest on a clear day. I went early in the morning once, and the sunrise painted the snow-capped peaks in pink and gold — it’s something you’ll never forget.

Shivapuri National Park

Shivapuri is just north of Kathmandu and offers several hiking options. The trails cut through thick forests, with moss-covered stones and bamboo groves. If you’re lucky, you might spot birds or even monkeys swinging overhead. The final viewpoints provide sweeping views of the Kathmandu Valley. The best part is the quiet — you hear nothing but your footsteps, the wind in the trees, and occasionally a distant temple bell from the valley below.

Champadevi

Champadevi hill is south of the city and offers a moderate hike. The trail passes through villages where kids wave as you walk by, chickens pecking in the dirt, and small shrines tucked into corners. The view from the top is lovely, overlooking both the city and the hills beyond. It’s a shorter hike, perfect if you don’t have a full day, but still want to feel like you’ve left Kathmandu behind.

Phulchowki

Phulchowki is the highest hill surrounding Kathmandu, and hiking here is a more serious undertaking. The trails pass through dense forest and several small villages. It can be quiet and misty, giving a sense of being completely removed from the city. On a clear day, the view from the top includes the entire Kathmandu Valley, with the Himalayas rising beyond. Birds, orchids, and occasional wildlife make the walk rewarding in unexpected ways.

Sundarijal to Budhanilkantha Trail

For a hike that combines nature with cultural sights, try the trail from Sundarijal to Budhanilkantha. The path starts near a small waterfall, winds along streams, and passes temples and small settlements. You get glimpses of rural life, terraced fields, and forested slopes. The trail is not long, but it’s varied — perfect for a half-day hike that still feels adventurous.

Tips for Hiking Near Kathmandu

• Start early in the morning to avoid city heat and catch the best light for views.
• Wear sturdy shoes - trails can be rocky, muddy, or uneven.
• Carry water, snacks, and a small first aid kit -facilities are limited outside towns.
• Respect local villages - many paths pass private land, so follow the trail and ask if you’re unsure.
• Check the weather -Himalayan weather can change fast, even near the valley.

Hiking near Kathmandu is less about conquering mountains and more about slowing down. You leave the city behind and notice small details: the smell of pine, the chatter of birds, the smell of wood smoke from village kitchens. Even a short hike leaves you feeling calmer, lighter, and more connected to the valley that cradles the city.

There’s a second layer to Kathmandu — not just the temples and squares that get photographed and hashtagged, but the quiet corners where life happens without an audience. These spots whisper history, hum with local routines, and let you catch the city when it stops performing. Below are some of my favourite off‑beat places around the valley, ones you’ll really remember.

1. Kirtipur – Hill‑town Time Capsule

A 20‑minute ride from the city centre, Kirtipur might seem easy to reach but it keeps its calm. Old Newari houses cling to the hillside, children play in narrow lanes, and the view over the valley from the Bagh Bhairab temple feels like a reward. oldbalajitravelsgkp.com

+1 You’ll find locals drying red chilies on rooftops, even the dogs walking slower. Stay for an edge‑of‑town meal of Newari food—it tastes richer here.

2. Chobhar Caves & Gorge – Nature’s Quiet Edge

Less than an hour from central Kathmandu, Chobhar offers unexpected cool air and quiet passages. The network of caves and the gorge where the ancient lake of the valley is said to have drained are full of legends. Wikipedia

Bring a flashlight if you go deeper, and stop at the viewpoint: look out over the gorge and river, feel removed for a few hours.

3. Bungamati & Khokana – Villages Elsewhere

Just 30 minutes south, these old Newari villages are often skipped by the big tour buses. Wood‑carved windows, mustard‑oil mills, courtyards where nothing much happens, and that’s the point. Take your time walking, buy something small from a local artisan, smile at kids in school uniforms.

4. Garden of Dreams – A Hidden Oasis

Tucked behind Thamel’s chaos, this neo‑classical garden is a real find. Arrive just after sunrise or during the soft afternoon light and it feels untouched. Water features, green lawns, and fewer than a dozen people around—it’s the kind of place where you’ll actually hear yourself thinking

5. Taudaha Lake – Lakeside Calm

A short drive out of Kathmandu and you arrive at this quiet lake, ringed by forest and migratory birds (in winter).

Rent a boat or just sit on a bench. The contrast with the city’s noise is immediate. It’s simple, but sometimes “simple” is rare.

6. Pharping – Spiritual Hill Retreat

South of the valley rim, Pharping is edged with monasteries, caves associated with Guru Rinpoche, and a pace that’s sloooow compared to Kathmandu’s. ratnapark.com

Get there early so you can explore before the schools or tourists arrive. Sit in the monastery courtyard and let the wind shift the prayer flags overhead.

A Few Notes Before You Go

• Respect the places: many of these spots are still used by locals for daily life—dress modestly, ask before you photograph.
• Transport might be less frequent: taxis are fine, but buses might not run at perfect hours.
• Time slows down here: these places reward lingering. Bring water, wear comfortable shoes, and leave space for wandering.
• Weather and light matter: sunrise or late afternoon usually gives you the best experience.

1. Once a Giant Lake

Long ago, the whole valley was underwater. A saint named Manjushree is said to have cut open the Chobhar Gorge to drain it — and people found proof of an ancient lake bed, too.

2. More Temples Than Houses

Locals like to joke that Kathmandu has more gods than people. Every alley hides a shrine, and every courtyard has a story.

3. The Living Goddess

A young girl, called the Kumari, lives in Durbar Square as a living goddess. She’s rarely seen, but locals believe her blessing brings luck.

4. The Flag That Breaks the Rules

Nepal’s flag, seen all over Kathmandu, is the only non-rectangular national flag in the world. Two triangles for the Himalayas and faith.

5. Organized Chaos

Traffic looks wild — horns blaring, scooters zigzagging — but somehow, everyone manages. It’s chaos that just… works.

6. Mountains on the Horizon

On clear winter mornings, the Himalayas peek over the city. From Swayambhunath or Nagarkot, they look unreal.

7. Bells and Incense at Dawn

At sunrise, temple bells echo through the valley, and incense drifts through narrow streets. It’s the calmest part of the day.

8. Hippie Trail Roots

Before Thamel, Freak Street was the place. In the ’60s and ’70s, travelers came chasing peace, music, and mountain air.

9. A Festival Every Few Days

Kathmandu never runs out of celebrations — sometimes you walk into one without knowing what it’s for.

10. Built, Broken, Rebuilt

The city has faced many earthquakes, but it always stands again. That says a lot about the spirit of the people here.